Tag Archives: America

Tips for surviving a 24+ hour bus journey with your sanity

When travelling in South America, large buses/coaches/colectivos/micros are the main form of long distance transport. It is not uncommon to travel for over 24 hours on the bus to get to your destination, as the distances between towns and cities are vast. Whilst the scenery might be amazing, you can only look out of a window for so long. Thankfully, most of the buses offer decent seats, the occasional rest stop and if you are lucky then you could have a shared TV playing movies (in spanish or silent). To survive the inevitable boredom, it is wise to follow some of the below tips.

Snacks

I have seen a few hopeless tourists embark on a 24+ hout bus journey with no food in hand, and then moan about being hungry for several hours. There are normally rest stops but you cannot guarantee what food will be on sale, or the regularity of the stops. Go prepared. There will not be a fridge so choose savoury items that will keep. Empanadas is a great choice. A large bottle of water is a good idea, but also kids sized fruit juice cartons can come in handy, to give you some much needed vitamins. I made sure to keep all my snacks in a separate bag to my main rucksack so that I could keep it on the seat with me, and not disturb everyone each time I needed something from the overhead shelf.

Batteries

Whilst some of the buses have USB chargers over the seats, this is not the case with all of them. I have found a portable charger (fully charged beforehand) to be invaluable. You can bet that you will not be able to access any signal or internet for the majority of your journey either so there is no need to waste charge on your phone trying and failing to get 4G. Put your phone on airplane mode, and you will be surprised how long it lasts you.

Bathrooms

There is normally one toilet on the bus and toilets at your infrequent rest stops. You can be assured that the hygiene of toilets being occupied by 30+ people in a short period, will not be good. Not only can you expect poor hygiene, but also dodgy locks and no toilet paper is common. Take tissue and anti-bacterial gel with you, I can not stress this enough. It is also not a bad idea to carry some pills to avoid any unexpected stomach problems on a strenuous and very shared journey. To give you an example of the demands of the on bus toilet… on a 26 hour journey, I put off going in the bus toilet as long as I could, until I could wait no more. I took myself to have a wee, to the toilet which by this point (hour 20 maybe) was a state. There was not only no tissue, but also no water in the tap, and I had thought the door was locked. Apparently not. When I went to pull up my pants, another lady threw the door open, and said “I’m sorry but I have to go in, I am going to be sick”. She then vomited into the only toilet for a bus full of people about four times. I did not use the toilet again that journey.

Offline entertainment

Before your long journey, do an audit of your phone/tablet/laptop apps. How many of them can you use offline? There are actually a lot of games that you can access offline that can provide some easy entertainment. I have become a regular player of the offline chess.com app at the this point, but I am still struggling to beat the computer… Previously downloaded tv series and movies on streaming services like Netflix or Disney+ or music from Spotify can also be a great way to kill off the long hours. You can also take to the traditional pencil and paper, and do some sketching, or journaling. I have been improving my sketching by drawing copies of photos I have taken of local scenery and wildlife. If all else fails, maybe bring a book?

My recent sketches in my pocket notepad

Offline work

If you have the sort of job that you can work offline with, such as writing, then this can easily be a way to lose some time. If you are feeling like you want to put that time to good use. It is a good idea to test this out before your journey by disconnecting yourself from WiFi at your hostel, to see that everything works okay before you start promising on deadlines to be completed. I have been burnt by this myself when I assumed that the Microsoft Word on my chromebook would still work okay offline, it turned out that it was still powered by an online service, so I missed out on doing hours of work.

Sleeping

If you are on a long journey by bus, you will be travelling overnight, and testing out those reclining seats to the maximum. It can be cold on the bus in the evening, as you have not been moving around much, and the drivers always seem to crank up the AC for some reason. Probably to stay awake themselves. The problem is, this also keeps me awake. If you have a light blanket or something to put over yourself, make it reachable. I tried to get my coat from the overhead shelf in the middle of the night (4am), and it was very dark, and very awkward when in pulling my coat out, I accidently knocked a shoe off the shelf and it fell and hit the sleeping passenger in the face who was sitting in front of me. It was really bad.

Sometimes, being awake when everyone else is asleep can be a blessing though. It is super quiet, and you might see an amazing sunrise that everyone else misses. That is what happened to me on one journey…

Overall, don’t underestimate the planning needed before your long road trip. If you put in a little effort to prepare, you will be glad you did.

Argentina: Central Patagonia (Santa Cruz Province)

Following my visit to Argentina’s Lake District, I continued my journey South into the center of the Patagonian region and one step closer towards the bottom of the world. This area is full of mountains, and glaciers, and many national parks!

Perito Moreno

After a 13 hour bus journey from El Bolson, I made it to the small town of Perito Moreno. I was the only person to exit the bus at 1am and make my way to my little wooden cabin in the town centre. I had come here for only one reason, to see the Cueva de las Manos, only accessible by car or tour.

Cueva de las Manos (Cave of Hands)

I joined a tour group of Argentine people, and we made our way across some very bumpy roads and past wildlife and huge canyons, before finally arriving at the UNESCO site of Cueva de las Manos. This world famous spot has an amazing collection of ancient cave paintings and hand prints, not inside the cave but across the front of it, along a huge rock face. The guide on the site escorted our group through a long boardwalk running across the side of the paintings and with views of a canyon on the other side.

These amazing paintings crowd the walls and include handprints of adults and children from possibly three different times. You can also see illustrations of animals that they would hunt, geometric shapes, that are suspected to represent a map, and there is even a suspected paw print of a puma! The whole collection is made up of different colours, including yellows and bright blues, and are made from different natural materials. I imagine that the person that discovered this must have been completely astonished by all the haunting raised hands.

Patagonia Park

The tour also included visits to other interesting locations nearby such as the Patagonia Park, which had huge salt flats to see.

The locals prepared a lunch for our group of traditional and locally produced food. It was delicious and in true Argentine style, the portions were huge. I tried to tell the people in the group that I was full, but the little old ladies in the group said they wanted to fatten me up and they are like my ‘abuela’ (grandma) and want to look after me! haha

Coloured mountains

The last stop was an hour hike over some amazing hilltops/mountains that were brightly coloured in oranges, red and yellows. This is due to the properties in the rocks and all the minerals being brought out by rainfall. It was pretty awesome, and the short walk to the top gives you an amazing view!

El Chalten & Fitz Roy

Next stop on my trip was to the little town of El Chalten. Getting there was a struggle. It had been raining the night before, and so they rerouted the bus to the only other motorway that took us to the bottom of the country then we turned back around and went back up… A 10 hour journey took 18 hours… craziness.

On finally arriving, I headed straight out for a short hike to a nearby waterfall. It was great to get some fresh air and put my head under the flowing glacier water. I also got great views of the landscape and the town. El chalten is a part of this natural landscape and is an absolute haven for hikers and climbers.

Laguna de los tres

The next day, I started the strenuous hike of Laguna de los tres to Fitz Roy mountain. This hike is only 20 km but it took me about 9 hours. The final km took about two hours as the climb was a directly up ascent on difficult terrain. Normally I walk 4-5 km per hour.

The trail passes through forests, rivers, lakes and grasslands, as well as going through two campsites. It was a very warm and busy day on the trail, but this gave me the opportunity to meet many people. During my day of trekking, I befriended two different groups from Argentina and a girl from Spain. Making conversation with strangers is one of my favourite parts of solo trekking, as I meet so many interesting people from all around the world.

On reaching the top, I collapsed in a pile for a few minutes, then made my way to the lake that was formed by the melting glacier, and took an icy drink, before taking a dip. I spent a few hours here, relaxing and enjoying the sights of the Fitz Roy mountain and the falling water to the drop below.

El Calafate

Next day, I was off to Calafate, on the other side of the National Glacier Park from El Chalten. This town is bustling with tourist shops and restaurants. I have a dwindling budget so I cooked whilst I was there, but still managed to admire the Patagonian Lambs being roasted over the fire through the restaurant windows.

Perito Moreno Glacier

The main excursion to take from El Calafate is to see the huge Perito Moreno Glacier. You have to take a tour which costs about £35 to get to the glacier which is a few hours away. There is then a small charge for the entrance to the park. We were given four hours in the park. I was given a choice to pay extra for a one hour boat ride that takes you closer to the glacier, but I chose not to take this option, and just enjoyed the various boardwalk routes around the front of the glacier.

This huge glacier is very unique and larger than the entire city of Buenos Aires (which blew my mind)! The glacier is apparently in balance,meaning that it loses the same amount of ice each day as is returned to it, due to how the water flows around it. There are three different routes you can take around the glacier’s boardwalk, and they vary by height and length. I did all three, and found the boardwalk system to be very efficient and plentiful in relaxing balconies where you could eat your lunch and watch pieces of the glacier fall into the water below. This phenomenon was amazing. I saw not only the ice fall and splash against the lake, but also the lower layer of ice boil up to the surface and spin around in circles. Very cool.

Rio Gallegos

My last stop in Argentina for a while, was Rio Gallegos. I came here to the bottom of mainland Argentina, to cross the border into Chile. There is not much to see here but it is a good supply stop, and there are some sculptures along a promenade walk and a small house that you can visit as a free museum.

For now, I am off to Chile, for some more trekking and to see the other side of Patagonia, before I return to Argentina, to visit the bottom of the world…

Camino de Santiago: Barreda to Gijon

Another week of walking has gone by, and this time the distances were much longer, and the terrain was more varied.

First stop was a stay in Barreda, and a visit to Santillana de Mar. A beautiful town that makes you feel as if you have gone back in time. The streets are cobbled and old stone is all around, they have lots of bars and restaurants, and a tourist information point. Also some museums. I visited the Torture Museum!

The museum was quite interesting but also very gruesome. It also made me wonder what sort of person would acquire a collection like this… The animal masks were particulary weird, apparently it was to silence the speech of women and other lowly folk at the time, and also a symbol of public humiliation.

2km down the road is also the world heritage site, the Caves of Altamira. The caves were discovered in the 1800s and have a collection of pretholific paintings inside, and a system of spaces for different uses. The caves were so popular to visit that they began to become damaged, and had to be closed to the public. Now, only five people per week are selected to visit the original cave. The museum has painstakingly created an exact replica for the general public though.

I visited the replica, it was still underground and very dark but certain areas of importance were highlighted. There were many paintings of animals, that were surprisingly detailed, and a pressed in hand print. This whole experience was a lot better than expected and only cost €4! I was also able to wonder down to the outside of the original caves.

Whilst walking the camino to the next stop in Comillas, the seaside views and sites of farms became very familiar, and I also went hunting for more caves!

Nearby to the path, I had seen on the map that there was a cave in a woodland that had been discovered to have ancient paintings again, and you could have this one all to yourself. La cueva de aguas was about 20-30 minutes off the track, and was very exciting!

In this small cave, deep in the woods, I had to ditch my backpack outside, and crouch to get in. It is completely pitch black, and I could hear the loud sound of water. When i finally got my torch going (I had resisted, as I was afraid of bats), I realised there was water gushing around my feet, and a waterfall running through the cave!

It was really amazing to find, and I could just make out the higher level in the cave, where the cave people would have made home. This cave was on the route of the miners, and another small cave can also be seen on the path, but is inaccessible.

After the excitement of the cave, I had fallen behind schedule, on this very long stretch. I walked as quickly as I could through more roads, woodland, and past a gorgeous beach, trying to get to town before sunset.

I spent the last few hours frantically calling pensions and hotels in town to try to find a room. I kept coming up against the same response, ‘we are closed for winter’. Forty minutes walk away, and already night time by now, I sat in a bus shelter, and seriously considered sleeping there. It looked like quite a well built shelter, but I didn’t like the idea of being 40 minutes behind on tomorrow’s walk. In a final attempt, I phoned a golf club in the town, and managed to rent a 3 bedroom apartment for one night, for 85 euros. So with no food, and sore feet, I dragged myself there and managed to get a bed for the night. Bright side – it had a washing machine!

The next day, I left late, got my stamp from the tourism office, and headed out for a shorter walk to San Vincente. The day began with a lot of rain, and going uphill. After the stressful night before, and being hammered by rain, my will power was running low. Then all of a sudden, I was at a beautiful nature reserve, the sky cleared, and a rainbow appeared, and everything was better again.

San Vincente was a big town with a beautiful old church on the hill, (that used to serve as a hospital for pilgrims), a castle, and then a pleasant restaurant and bar scene below. I met a fellow traveller over dinner, and we talked about our trips and exchanged stories. It was great to have a good conversation, it had been a few days, since I had spoken to anyone.

Next, I crossed the river into Asturias region, the third of four in the walk. I could immediately see the differences in the area from Cantabria. Many of the buildings were brightly coloured and beatifully built in the 1800s. They were built by ‘indianos’, spanish people that went to South America, made their fortune, then returned and built beautiful lavish homes for themselves.

I stayed in Llanes for the night, in the train station albergue, and the influence was clear here. It also had a gorgeous ancient quarter of the town, as well as a port once famous for whaling. There are quite a few shops here but it is on the pricey side.

Next day, was the 20 mile hike to Ribadesella. The day before I had to cut my walk short, as my foot was so sore it had started bleeding. I was worried about making the hike but feeling determined.

The walk was very varied, with the Picos de Europa mountain range on the left and beaches to the right, woodlands and farmland. It was really enjoyable and had amazing scenery. It was only in the final two of eight hours I began to be just dragging myself along to the end!

Ribadesella is another coastal town, with a harbour, and another gorgeous beach. I hiked to the viewpoint and did some sketching, and just chilled. There are some more caves near this area, but on this day I decided to keep them as a mystery. It always gives me a reason to return!

The next walk to Colunga, was still full of beautiful beaches, but also some other things that I have noticed only in Asturias. Gateways with a weird style of layered tiles that I can only assume is decorative, a unique way of pouring cider that has maximum splash impact, (it turns out Asturias is famous for its cider)… and these unstable looking sheds… called horreos or paneras.

They seem to be dotted all along the rural villages. They are all wooden huts, sitting on top of stacked stones. I would be very nervous to go inside these, as they look so wobbly. Traditionally they were used to stock dry grains away from rodents (I have seen rats climb though…) Now, people continue to use them to store firewood, hay, and I even saw some people living in them! Planning permission must be a breeze here… they are everywhere!

Gijon

After a rainy day and night in the pretty town of Villaviciosa, I finally arrived in the city of Gijon. I stayed in a hostel right on the beach.

The city has countless cider houses, and whilst I did not spot a cathedral, it has several churches and a basilica. This was my last opportunity to stock up on supplies before I arrive in Santiago de Compostela in another two weeks or so. I hit the supermarket for more plasters, high protein snacks etc. Hopefully, I will be okay!

With only a day in Gijon, I had to be picky about what to see. Gijon has a set of roman ruins that I was tempted by, but the pull to find out more about those wooden sheds I had seen, was much stronger. So, I walked to the edge of the city, to the Museum of the people of Asturias.

The museum was way better than I expected. For a start, it was free! YAY! I thought that it would be just a few boards with photos and objects, but the museum was actually mostly outside. The biggest part of the site is devoted to the actual traditional buildings of the region. These buildings such as horreos, shepherd refuges, and country houses, have all been actually dismantled from their original location and reassembled at the site. Pretty impressive. You can enter many of the buildings and see how it would have looked. For example, the peasant house has the rooms and fireplace set out as it would have looked, and there is a cider press with huge equipment and barrels in place.

The museum also had temporary exhibitions, and a bagpipes museum! Apparently bagpipes are big in Asturias tradition! As well, as some very odd looking bagpipes, there are a variety of other traditional instruments on show, and details about how they are made.

If you want to make the walk extra worthwhile, the museum is also next to another museum, the football stadium, sports centre and a lovely park.

Overall, I think whilst I am now becoming physically exhausted from all the walking, the Camino continues to prove itself as totally worth it. The walk this past week was colourful and varied, and I really liked Gijon. Time to follow those yellow arrows… see

To mark the end of the first half of the walk, I have made a little video..

A week in ‘the Big Apple’ and a day in Philly!

This March a group of us traveled out to the ‘Big Apple’ for a birthday celebration, and although I had my reservations about going for a full week, there was plenty to keep us busy and we even managed to squeeze a visit to Philly in too!

Flying with Delta

We traveled to JFK Airport from Heathrow with Delta airlines. This was a pretty pleasant journey with a lot of choice in entertainment with the in seat screens, you have a choice of recent movie releases, television shows, and games. There was also plenty of food & drink included in our flight, I enjoyed a full lunch, full hot dinner, movie snacks, and ice cream.

Staying in Brooklyn

We decided to rent an apartment in Brooklyn for our week in NYC as there was seven of us and to stay in a hotel in Manhattan would have been too expensive for us. It was nice to see Brooklyn and you could definitely feel the difference between this community suburb and the metropolitan atmosphere of Manhattan. We were lucky enough to find an apartment with enough rooms for us all and brilliant facilities, which also happened to be close to the subway station which was great!

We were in the area of Bushwick which had quite a few shops for us to get supplies such as much needed midnight nachos! We also made a visit to Williamsburg which is a trendy part of Brooklyn with many bars and restaurants, where we had the enjoyment of trying out a ‘Meatball Shop‘ a great restaurant offering various meatball & spaghetti recipes. Opposite this, was an amazing bakery which offered the most freshly baked cakes I have ever seen in one place! Definitely worth a stop!

As well as making use of a weekly subway ticket which is a bargain at $30, I would also recommend taking a walk from Brooklyn into Manhattan if you have a chance. This well known bridge has some great views of the New York skyline and various stalls and artists sitting a long it.

Views of New York; Statue of Liberty, Top of the Rock, & Empire State building

I visited many of the main view points in New York City both during the day and night and I would have to say that whilst the Empire State building was a great view point within Manhattan, the queuing process for this is very long for a reasonably short experience, so I would recommend getting there early and having your tickets already.

My favourite view overall was the view from the ferry to the Statue of Liberty which showed the true skyline of lower Manhattan surrounded in water. The boat is great too as you are able to go outside or inside on three different levels to get the best snap. We also went up the crown of the Statue of Liberty, which had to be pre-booked, and whilst this was a unique experience, it is a very cramped room to stand in and can be quite claustrophobic to climb the many winding steps to the top. I would say that being mid way up the statue can be just as good for a nice shot of Manhattan with a bit less squeezing in small places.

Museums & Central Park

One of the things I didn’t realise before visiting New York was the pure amount of museums and galleries that were available to visit. We tried to pack in quite a few of the main museums, but if I was to revisit I would definitely carry on checking out the museums I missed.

Many of the museums we saw surrounded Central Park which meant we could take a stroll through the park between museum visits. Seeing Central Park in the winter was quite disappointing as it wasn’t the great green space we had hoped to see but the views around the reservoir were lovely and there were plenty of structures to look around at in the park.

The museums surrounding the park included; American Museum of Natural History, Museum of the City of New York and The Metropolitan Museum of Art. These were all fab, the Museum of the City of New York was more based on photographs and imagery and included an interesting film showing the full history of New York. The American Museum of Natural History was full of interesting artifacts from around the world and a brilliant collection of mammals, fish and of course dinosaurs that really wowed us! It was also fun to see familiar scenes in the museum that I’d seen in films like ‘Night at the Museum’. The Metropolitan Museum of Art was also rich in historical objects as well as beautiful sculptures and art, with each room designed differently to suit the period of time or style it represented.

Other museums that were interesting included; the Statue of Liberty museum which explained the history and meaning of this massive American symbol; Ellis Island which holds a huge museum dedicated to the millions of immigrants that came over to New York during the 19th century; and the 9/11 museum which is extremely moving and informative, and which I would recommend everyone should visit.

Times Square

As expected, Times Square is a very busy area, full of tourists and souvenir shops, but also great for restaurants and bars. We went into Times Square a few times for some delicious American food and shopping, a great place to chill out after a day of sightseeing.

Broadway & Sports

If seeing Times Square lit up at night isn’t enough, you can also fill up your evenings with entertainment. We split up our group and saw Chicago in Theatre whilst the boys headed to a Basketball game; Brooklyn Mets Vs Philadelphia 76ers. The game was a bargain and the boys were able to buy there $13 tickets online on the day, whilst the Chicago tickets although more expensive at $75 each were still half price due to being bought on the day from a local TKTs booth. There are several of these booths offering discounted theatre tickets around the city but we decided to use the Lincoln Centre booth as it was less busy and also is the only stand which is housed indoors. The show was great fun and of brilliant quality including song, dance and comedy.

Chinatown & Little Italy

For some great shopping bargains and interesting cuisine it is worth spending an afternoon in Chinatown and the adjacent Little Italy. There is a Chinese market full of peculiar ingredients available to purchase, various shops selling souvenirs and other bottom dollar items, as well as a number of shrines.

I made a visit to the Eastern States Buddhist Temple on Mott St, which was a small tucked away building which you would miss if you did not know where to look. As well as having a Buddhist shrine with a few people worshiping, the building also sold souvenirs and had a bowl of fortunes which you could pay a dollar to take one. My partner and I did this and had very opposite results. This was a great fun and really interesting to see when you wonder down the streets of Chinatown that there are so many of these small temples tucked away. There was also many locals stopping in the street to bow their heads into the doorways, making you want to peer in and take a look.

Little Italy is much smaller, only going over a few streets, but it has many restaurants selling traditional Italian food and you can get a great vibe for the heritage with the colours of the Italian flag painted all around.

A quick trip to Philly…

As we had a week staying in the US we decided to take advantage of our location and book a bus to Philadelphia, which is only 1.5/2 hours from NYC. We traveled with Greyhound for $20 which we booked online a few days before. Ticket collection at Penn Station in Manhattan was simple and the bus journey was fairly pleasant. We managed to arrive early enough to head down to the Independence Visitor Centre and pre-book the last tour of the day for Independence Hall, which can only be viewed through a free booked tour.

After this rush to the Centre we circled back a little bit and I visited the Reading Terminal Market… This market place had such an amazing variety of food from all over the world, and everything looked delicious… I have not stopped thinking about some of the goodies I saw in this place! Of course we had to try a Philly Cheesesteak which Philadelphia has made famous worldwide, and I can see why!

The Cheesesteak from ‘by George’ in the Reading Terminal Market was absolutely mouthwatering! A great mix of steak, onions and melted american cheese was simple but excellent. The stand also sold other amazing looking treats such as pastas, stromboli (rolled up pizza!) and they even made the salad look great! My cheesesteak was a footlong though so I was unable to fit anymore in, how I wish I could go back again though..

After our tasty lunch we headed out towards the Philadelphia Museum of Art where the famous scene from Rocky was filmed of the boxer running up the steps leading to the museum. Many of the people in my group were fans of the film so we decided to take a look and they a long with many others changed into a set of grey trackies and climbed the steps just like Rocky. I had never quite seen anything like this before but I can’t say I wouldn’t do something similar if it was the set from my favourite film! There is now also a statue of Rocky in place which I decided I may as well have a photo shot with as I was there.

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Me with Rocky statue, Philadelphia

To finish off the day we made our way back to the historic district and went towards our tour of Independence Hall. We rushed through security and took some photos of the famous Liberty Bell which I was surprised to have to queue for as I had thought it would be easily accessible outside, but in actual reality it was inside a small museum.

From there we went on to go through further security and on to our tour of Independence Hall which lasted around 40 minutes and included a look at the Assembly room where the Declaration of Independence was signed.

The tour was of course very patriotic and took us through some of the basics of the US history including the revolution. This was very interesting as I had no idea beforehand how long it took the US to become established with laws and elected figures and this is of course is where many of the American people’s ideals today come from and of course the still celebrated ‘Independence Day’.

So that pretty much wraps up my visit to NYC & Philly, if I had made this a longer tour I probably would have made a visit to Washington, Boston or Niagara Falls and Toronto, but I am quite happy with all we squeezed in. This was a very tiring week with us totalling up around 10 miles of walking per day but well worth seeing some of America’s key symbols and historic locations, as well as experiencing New York life a little and meeting many friendly New Yorkers.

Quick tips:

Some other great places worth visiting and tips to remember whilst staying in New York…

  • Take a quick look in St Paul’s Chapel. This chapel was built in 1766 and is one of the earliest churches in American history, it is famous for being a place of worship for President George Washington, even immediately following his inauguration. There is also a lot of interesting information inside for visitors.
  • Be aware that what might not look far on the map, may actually be a hell of a long way! We were caught out a few times by thinking something at the end of the street wasn’t far, but many of the roads in New York are huge, so it is likely you will walk a long way. Save your feet and take the subway!
  • If you are going to a major attraction get there early! We went in March and the crowds were still huge in places like Statue of Liberty and the Empire State building. If you can, get there when it opens!
  • Purchase a New York CityPass! This was really handy as it meant our tickets were already sorted for the major attractions we wanted to go to and so in many places we did not have to join the longer ticket line.

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